Muncie 4 speed shifting problems

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muncie 4 speed shifting problems

I want to register an account for free right now! Forum Rules. Hi, there. I would get over having a lumpy idle cam in the engine. Totally useless except for the sound if this is a street use vehicle you want to drive regularly. You will quickly tire of it. The question is whether you want that much weight in the front of a Camaro. I would not. A Chevy Big Block weighs in at around lbs with cast iron heads.

That is a lot of weight in the front of The resistance in electrical conductors increases with temperature. It could be something as simple as a plug wire connection at either the distributor or where the wire is crimped to the plug Fighting the return system, going to take some mods to the trunk space sheetmetal to get to the tank. Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 15 of Why is my Muncie 4 speed overly stiff to shift?

I think that the 4 to 3 shift is the worst but it's quite stiff in all forward gears not reverse I purchased it as a used unit it came with an old shifter that is very sloppy. I did take the side cover off to check for broken bits before fitting to the car. I couldn't get a new gasket so I made my own from gasket paper. The paper that I used was a little thicker that the original gasket would that make a difference?

Cheers Manky. Register now for free! The first question that comes to mind is what did you put in it for lubrication?The Jalopy Journal.

Terms of Service. Privacy Policy. Log in or Sign up. Atomic Industries www. Register now to get rid of these ads! The H. Tags: 4 speed shifting problem shifting problems. Has anyone with a 4 speed m22 Muncie and hurst competition shifter had problems shifting from 1st to 2nd? My tranny and shifter have less than miles on them. The problem doesn't happen every time. But when drag racing 4 out of 6 runs it stucks in first.

When it happens the shifter is stuck in 1st gear position and wont move in any direction. To fix it I have to go under car and use a wench to move the shifter arm on trans to neutral. Then it will work again.

I have tried several different things. Here is a list of the things I have tried. Recalibrating shifter linage to tranny shift arms. Checking for any part of linkage or tranny shift arms rubbing on trans tunnel or shifter plates rubbing on trans housing. Backed off shifter limit bolt stops.

Chucky likes this. Sounds like you may be overtraveling the shift slider, which is what you are actually controlling by setting the stop bolts on the shifter Overtraveling can make them jam or stick. Setting procedure for the stop bolt is: -Shifter fully assembled and all linkage connected and adjusted correctly.

If you still have the problem, it is inside the box and not the shifter Ericnova72Jul 9, Not the problem, but make sure you use GL-4 rated gear lube. DDDennyJul 9, Did you align the gate with the pin inserted, limit bolts loose and shift arms off? A PITA however a hoist certainly helped. It's never given any trouble since then. Also check that the shift rods aren't fouling on under body or X-member. Not what you want to hear but I'd look at the side cover or synchronizer. Is this a new shifter?

Last edited: Sep 19, I readjusted the stops and I'm pretty sure that solved it for me. You need to get rid of the stupid plastic bushings that the shift likage uses in the the shift arms on the trans and the shifter. Replace them with a Hurst Pit Pack part numbersolid bushings, I have done this with every Hurst shifter I have used since the first one 20 years ago. The plastic get sloppy fast and causes exactly what you are talking about, even faster if you are drag racing it.

This will tighten it up the way you wanted it to be in the first place.It is a good idea to understand the basics of your Muncie 4-speed before you start rebuilding the transmission. Successfully diagnosing transmission problems is directly related to how well you understand how this transmission works. The inner workings of a Muncie 4-speed can be intimidating at first.

Once explained, you will see that it is quite easy to understand how every component functions. The Muncie 4-speed is a constant-mesh transmission. This means that all the gears in the transmission, except for reverse, are always meshed together and spinning, even in neutral. When you shift you are locking a particular-speed gear to the main-shaft.

In reality, only three reduction gears correspond to physical first, second, and third gears. Fourth gear is technically a direct drive, so no physical gear is actually being used. All forward-speed gears are locked to the output shaft via the two synchronizer assemblies; each assembly is responsible for working two gears. The rear assembly is the and the front assembly is the The cover has two shifter shafts that operate the forks, which then control the corresponding assemblies.

The rear shaft works the synchronizer fork; the forward shaft works the synchronizer fork.

The cover mechanism has detents that position and lock the shift fork in place. These detents function as interlocks, preventing any two forward-speed gears from being shifted at the same time. These also scissor in the sidecover.

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Keep in mind that grabbing two gears at the same time can be extremely dangerous. In addition to blowing up the transmission, the driver can lose control of the car. When a shift is made, the shift fork moves the slider and the slider moves the three strut keys or shift dogs.

Finally, this energizes the synchro ring onto the gear. The synchro ring is locked to the synchro hub, which is then locked to the output shaft. Therefore, the ring matches the speed of the gear to the speed of the output shaft. The ring is essentially a tapered cone clutch. This action all happens in a split second. Reverse gear is a sliding gear. It has no ability to synchronize; therefore, you can only put a car into reverse when you are at a complete stop.

The shifter shaft in the extension housing is the reverse shaft. The problem with this design is that it is very possible to shift into reverse and one of the forward-speed gears at the same time because no interlock mechanism is present. Many people grind reverse because they are too impatient to wait for the transmission to slow down on its own. Sometimes people put the transmission into first gear to make sure the transmission has stopped turning before putting it into reverse.

4 speed shifting

This is a pretty good practice providing you have proper clutch release to begin with. With the transmission in neutral, press down on your clutch pedal, count off 10 seconds, and then put the transmission directly into reverse. This should be enough time for the transmission to slow down on its own so if there is any type of grind or clunk, the transmission is still turning when it should not, indicating poor release. A clutch that releases poorly is the most common cause of synchro ring failure.

In order for a synchronizer ring to do its job properly, it must be able to sync up the shaft and gear speeds with no engine load on it. If load is present, the ring overheats as it tries to fight the engine load; this causes the ring to warp.Kelly, United States Iceland Full Circle, August 2013 We really appreciated the fine service and flexibility provided by our agent Larus as well as the entire NV staff.

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muncie 4 speed shifting problems

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muncie 4 speed shifting problems

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muncie 4 speed shifting problems

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How Muncie 4-Speeds Work

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